Emma Scaramozzino - March 2, 2021
HOW TO: CHOOSING A SETTING
Choosing a setting for an engagement ring or wedding band can be overwhelming. Although you may have some idea of what you like visually, it's hard to decide which setting will pair best with your other rings, or which is best for you lifestyle. Read on to learn more about each type of setting and why it may be the one for you.
Claw Prongs are one of the most popular and well known setting styles. They narrow into a point, making them one of the more delicate setting options. Although this setting may look fragile, it is a perfectly secure setting that draws attention to the stone it holds, making it a desirable setting for many.
Bead prongs are another very popular setting style and are often used as an alternative to claw prongs. The difference between bead and claw prongs is the finish at the end of the prong. Claw prongs narrow to a point while bead prongs finish with a rounded tip. Besides personal preference, one may choose bead prongs over claw if they are not used to wearing rings / their fingers are sensitive to the sharper nature of claw prongs. However, if the stone is set correctly, this should not be a problem.
V-prongs are designed to support the sharp points or corners of stones. You'll typically see this type of setting on marquise, princess cuts, or pear diamonds. It provides the same delicate look as bead or claw prongs while keeping the stone extra secure.
Bezel settings are designed to protect the entirety of the edge of a stone - this is achieved by framing the diamond with a continuous rim of thin metal. The back of the diamond, however, remains open to preserve and highlight the stone's sparkle. One may choose a bezel setting for the metal-heavy look, or extra protection if they're rough with their hands.
Semi-Bezel settings hold the rim of a stone only partially. This type of setting is seen often on pear-shaped stones because they have both a point and a rounded edge. However, this type of setting can be used on many stone shapes and adds to the style of a setting.
The most popular way to set round melee is in a scoop setting. Scoop settings form what looks like an inverted scallop on the edge of a ring. Each "scallop" or scoop is designed to hold a single round diamond. This is similar to a French V-Setting, but appears softer.
French V-Settings are also a very popular way to set melee and look similar to a scoop setting from afar. The biggest difference between the two is that instead of a scoop, each small setting creates a V shape for the stone to rest in. Compared to a scoop-setting, French V gives off an edgier vibe.
Bright cut settings are essentially a scoop setting with walls. Each stone has four prongs holding them in place with extra metal on the top and bottom of the ring. This type of setting looks great on it's own, especially with metal-heavy jewelry trending, as well as in contrast with an engagement ring with a softer setting with less metal.
Bar settings are pretty self explanatory - each stone is separated by a small metal bar. You will typically see this used when setting baguettes or princess cut melee, however it can be used for round stones as well. This is a classic setting that does a great job of highlighting each individual stone.
Channel settings hold stones in with the walls of the channel, allowing stones to touch. This setting looks best with baguettes and princess cut stones, though, it can also be done with round. When setting baguettes, channel settings create a seamless effect that gives the illusion of one continuous diamond wrapping around a ring.
Typically burnish setting is done with smaller stones that are meant to be set further apart. This method is done free-hand by the jeweler without any assistance from a CAD model. Burnish settings are created by a jeweler drilling into a ring to create a place for the stone to sit. Once the stone is set in place, metal is then pushed over the edges of the stone to hold it in place.