An old mine cut is an antique cushion-shaped diamond and was the dominant diamond cut from the 1700s through the late 1800s. Also called an antique cushion, it faded into obscurity once modern cuts took over, but today it is seeing a resurgence thanks to its character and subtle beauty. Below we'll cover where the old mine cut comes from, how it compares to modern cushion cuts and the other shapes it now comes in, and maybe you'll have a new favorite diamond shape by the end!
Photo: Sotheby's
What Is an Old Mine Cut Diamond?
The name "old mine" refers to the historic diamond mines of Brazil and India, the world's main diamond sources before major deposits were discovered in South Africa in the late 1860s. Brazil was the largest source through the 1700s and most of the 1800s, and most diamonds from its mines were cut in this shape because it made the best use of the rough found there. Once the South African mines opened, the earlier Brazilian and Indian mines became known as the "old mines." The style developed in the 1700s and was the most common diamond cut of the Georgian and Victorian eras, until it was gradually replaced by the round Old European cut in the late 1800s.
An old mine cut is notable for these features:
- A square-ish shape with soft, rounded corners.
- A high crown, the upper portion of the diamond above the girdle.
- A deep pavilion, the portion of the diamond below the girdle.
- A noticeably smaller table, the flat facet at the very top of the diamond.
- 58 facets, the same number as a round brilliant diamond, but arranged so each facet appears larger and chunkier.
- An open culet, the bottommost point of the diamond cut flat.
Each of these features met a historic need. The diamond was cut in this shape and depth to keep as much weight as possible from the rough being mined, which naturally lent itself to this form. The faceting style also performed beautifully in candlelight, showing more fire (flashes of rainbow light) than brilliance (white light reflection). Finally, the pointed tip at the bottom of the stone, called the culet, was the area most at risk of chipping during cutting or daily wear, so it was cut flat to protect the stone.
Together, these features give old mine cushions their iconic look.
Photo: Carat Heritage
Old Mine vs. Cushion Brilliant vs. Cushion Modified Brilliant: What's the Difference?
The main difference is how the facets are arranged: old mines have large, chunky facets and a flat culet, cushion brilliants have a cleaner, more modern facet pattern, and cushion modified brilliants add extra facets for a "crushed ice" sparkle. Cushion diamonds have changed a lot since the old mine days, and each style has its own special features that some may prefer. For a broader look at how cushions compare with other shapes, see our guide to the pros and cons of every diamond shape.
Cushion brilliant cuts developed much later, as cutters refined proportions to better reflect light. Compared with the old mine, the cushion brilliant has a pointed culet, more balanced crown and pavilion depths, and a wider table, which gives the diamond a larger appearance.
Cushion modified brilliant builds on the cushion brilliant with extra facets, and sometimes specially shaped facets. These break light into many small reflections, making the center of the diamond very sparkly, a look often called "crushed ice." Most cushion-cut diamonds sold today are modified brilliants. The hybrid variant elongates some of these facets to make them more subtle, for those who want sparkle but not as much as some modified brilliants give.
Elongated cushions are increasingly popular. While traditional old mines were square, demand for the elongated old mine variant, combined with its limited availability, makes these stones highly sought after.
What Other Shapes Come in an Old Mine Cut?
Today, cutters apply old mine faceting to many shapes beyond the classic cushion, including emerald cuts, asschers, ovals, pears, hearts, marquises and more. These are modern cuts made in the old mine style, and they are popular for the same character and subtle brilliance as the original. Each has its own special features that make it unique, but all build on the historic original cushion.
Each shape is a fun way to get a diamond with more character, softer sparkle and a story to tell!
Old Mine Cushion Low-Set Engagement Ring
Old Mines x Shahla Karimi
Shahla Karimi specializes in stones with a story to tell. We've created many bespoke pieces featuring old mine cut stones, and we're always looking to create something new and special for everyone!
Visit the pages below to see our Old Mine diamond collection, as well as our bespoke process, with examples of our previous projects and a way to get in touch so we can create something special for you!
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